Saturday, March 4, 2017

Würzburg, Germany

We haven't traveled much this year, so on the first kind of nice day of the year, we headed west to Würzburg!  Although the main attraction in Würzburg is the Residence Palace, we knew we were only going to be there for one day, and the weather was just too nice to be indoors.  So we skipped the Palace for now (don't worry!  We are going back!) and instead focused on more outdoor fun!


We weren't even out of Auerbach before we saw the cutest little nun from the Krankenhaus (hospital) wheeling her bicycle back to her work!


The first stop in Würzburg (after we parked the car) was to make dinner reservations at Ristorante Capri, the oldest pizzeria in all of Germany!  I know what you're thinking.  "Wow, that must be really old!"  Actually, it opened in 1952!  How funny is that!?!


I know it's a VW, but this is definitely something you don't see everyday here in Germany!


I never tire of the pretty signs above the establishments in Bavaria.  Austria also has many signs like these.


We made our way to the Alte Mainbrücke, which is the old bridge that crosses the Main River (pronounced "Mine").  A Roman bridge was built here around 1120, but work on this one began 500 years before I was born.  I'll let you do the math on that one.  The statues that line the bridge were not erected until the early 1700s and feature saints and other important rulers of the area.


Above the Alte Mainbrücke sits the Festung Marienburg, or Marienburg Fortress.


Me and the babes with the Marienburg Fortress behind us as we stand on the Alte Mainbrücke. 


I don't know why, but we found the name "King Pippin" very funny.  He was the father of Charlemagne and was known as "Pippin the Short."  When the Bishopric of Würzburg was founded, Pippin was the King of the Franks (which included almost all of western Europe at that point) and he donated money and materials to the bishops.  Hence he got himself a glamorous statue on the Alte Mainbrücke.


Typical Germany.  Ummmm, say what?  St. Kilian is about to chop this guy's head off with his golden sword!


Seriously!  All of these people on the Alte Mainbrücke are drinking WINE!  SO MUCH WINE!  There were a couple of little shops selling wine out of glasses (yes, I said actual glasses) and everyone was just having a lovely time.



Meanwhile, these two.  Here they are starting their trek up to the top of the Festung Marienburg.  Let's see if that scowl gets worse on Natalie's face!


The views from the mid point of the Festung Marienburg are totally worth it.  You can see the Alte Mainbrücke, the Main River, the Residence and almost all of Würzburg!


The Alte Mainbrücke and all of it's festive wine drinkers.


I loved this tree at the mid point on the way up to the Festung Marienburg. In 1525, there was a revolt by the peasants of the area (the Bauernkrieg) against the nobility.  Unfortunately, it failed and over 100,000 peasants were killed.


I'm guessing there was a moat here at one time. In fact, there was some sort of a settlement here dating all the way back to 1000 BC!  They believe the first fortress was built in the 8th century, however.  Over the years, it changed hands many times, was destroyed and rebuilt, and only finished it's last refurbishment in 1990.  It took 40 years to complete the castle renovations.  This particular bridge though was built in 1650!  (Girl built in 2007).


For nearly 500 years, the Marienburg Fortress was home to the Prince-Bishops of Wurzburg who also enjoyed the title of Duke of East Franconia. Most of the castle (and 90% of the city for that matter) was destroyed in the March 1945 bombings by (mostly) the RAF and (just once) the USAF. 


I seriously almost had a fit when I saw this.  Winter lasts so long in Bavaria.  I see signs of spring!


Marching up to the actual entrance to the Festung, you can see this incredible door.  Also... if soldiers marching up had to endure that hike after doing weighted walking lunges with two 20# dumbbells the day before, then this Fortress never would have been compromised.  Poor, poor planning on my part.


Todd is showing off the Scherenburgtor, which was built in 1482, ten years before Columbus sailed the ocean blue.





We finally made it inside the inner walls!  Interesting how this ivy has been cut and is growing!


The inner courtyard features the Marienkirche (which is being renovated) and the Bergfried, a tower that has walls 2.5 meters thick and was built in the 13th century. 


Interestingly, this building now houses a museum and a conference center.  You can see the Marienkirche on the far right is under construction.  The fountains, once used for actual water were quite smelly!


The sun, moon and stars on top of Randersacker Tower.  I love this!!!


They're all kind of cute.  And stuff.  Here they are at the Kiliansturm.


Kind of hard to see here, but the moat is 12 meters deep.  That's about 36 feet! 


In the distance just south of the Fortress is the beautiful Wallfahrtskirche Käppele, or just the Käppele for anyone who lives nearby. It was built in the mid 1700s in the Rococo style.


We didn't go in for lack of time, but LOOK AT THIS.  (Thank you Wikipedia for satisfying my curiosity).  It's stunning.


The Eastern Wall of the Fortress provides the best views of Würzburg and the Main River.


The Alte Mainbrücke is still very festive with it's wine sales.  I also love the floodplain management tools here.  Look at how absolutely still the water is on the right side of the photo.


I know this little wooden bridge to the castle is new, but they looked super cute on it.  The reddish orange bricks above the door are interesting.


Sassy McSassalot before we went through the gate to leave.  Grant is ahead and Mommy is just trying to hang on so her legs don't give out.


This wall is seriously thick.  Even Grant can't believe it!




After we came down from the hill that is Festung Marienburg, we strolled through the old town and passed these beautiful Blumen for sale.  Ahhh, spring will be here soon!


What do you do when the kids are whining and want to stop?  You visit a CHURCH, of course.  Nothing makes them happier!


The Würzburg Cathedral is a Catholic church and is the fourth (the FOURTH!) largest Romanesque church in all of Germany.  Although this church was originally constructed between 1040-1075, most of it was destroyed in the March 1945 bombing of Würzburg.  It was reconstructed, and finally completed in the mid to late 1960s.


Beautiful baroque altar at the Würzburg Cathedral.


MDCCII is the year 1702.  That is the year (or time frame) that the artist Magno did most of the elaborate stucco work.  Not all, but some of the stucco work is original.


The baroque and stucco ceiling was destroyed in World War II, and it was replaced by this painted wooden ceiling.  Normally I like this kind of thing, simple and not gaudy but I didn't think it fit well in this church.


As we were leaving, we found it strange that there was what we supposed to be a menorah in the Cathedral.  It's actually a 7 lighted candelabra which was designed by Andreas Moritz in 1981.


Although they looked happy here, they were whining pretty bad about wanting to get some ice cream.


OK, OK... we caved and got them some Eis.  They sat on the steps of the Neumunster church and enjoyed their cones. Hashtag things you have to stop and do when you travel with children.


We walked toward the Marktplatz and passed the Marienkapelle (on the left) and the very ornate and Rococo public library known as the Falkenhaus.


Close up of the Falkenhaus.  This façade was originally built in the mid 1700s but of course, was heavily damaged in World War II.  The façade was redone in the mid 1950s.


Walking around the Marktplatz, they have a little seafood sandwich stand (??) which has these awesome trash cans!


The spire of the Marienkapelle in the Marktplatz.  We didn't go into the Marienkapelle, but it was originally built in the late 1300s but naturally was almost completely burned down in the war, and rebuilt in the 1950s.


Flowers and wine at the adult pit stop.

Hashtag things you have to stop and do when you travel with adults.


These are always my favorite moments as a family.  Seriously!  Despite all of the craziness and whining, I always like these times.


Looking around at the Marktplatz in Würzburg.


In the Marktplatz, they had this really fun machine that you hand cranked to get a water tornado to form.  So much science fun!


Of course, Todd crushed it and all of the kids and adults sitting around just ooooed and ahhhhhed.  Impressive work!


We walked to the Capri restaurant for dinner and spotted some colorful Würzburg buildings and the Marienburg Fortress up on the hill!


The buildings are colorful in Würzburg.  On a warm March day, there were plenty of people strolling about.


Dinner was in the basement of the Pizzeria Capri... in their paper mache Blue Grotto.  I'm not even kidding, it's made of paper mache!  They do a really nice job with the lighting so you can't really tell.


Ahhhhh, here we are in the Blue Grotto, looking out at the Mediterranean.


Or no, this is the real thing.  Wait.  It's really hard to tell! 


Kids don't care where they eat or how fun it is, as long as there is pasta and pizza.


He didn't get to go to the real Blue Grotto with me in Capri, but we'll always have Würzburg!


The tables have sand and shells on them, which are then covered in glass.


A lovely meal and evening at the Blue Grotto at the Pizzeria Capri in Würzburg!


 Next time, we are definitely going to the Residence in Würzburg, but I think I want to save that for a rainy or cold winter day! 

Goodbye Festung Marienburg... until next time, Würzburg!!

Saturday, January 28, 2017

Skiing in Garmisch!

Todd here.  I'm on a roll with guest blogs, so let's keep this going!

Having grown up in New England, I'm no stranger to skiing.  However, I'm not great.  After college I did not ski for at 15 years, and now I only ski once or twice a winter.  But, since we were spending a weekend in a ski resort town, I definitely wanted to hit the slopes. 
 There are three ski mountains - the Hausberg, Kreuzeck and Alpspitze – joined together in the Garmisch-Classic ski resort.  You can see the Zugspitze (the highest mountain in Germany) on the right.


The kids were excited to ski too!  However, they've only been two or three times, so we decided to sign them up for a half day of ski school.  Here you can see Natalie with her group.


There's my little buddy ready to tear up the slopes.


With Natalie and Grant in school, I took the gondola up the Hausberg mountain to the "Classic" ski area of Hausberg-Alpspitze.


A traditional ski lift took me to the top for my first run of the day.



Let's do this.

The skiing was great.  In the beginning, I stayed on the beginner trails. But as the day went on, I became more daring and hit up some of the intermediate runs.  I fell a few times, but thankfully no injuries!


Around lunchtime, I went back and checked on the kids.  They were having a blast, and it was such a warm, sunny day, no jacket required.  (Thank you Phil Collins.)


Grant finding his ski legs.


You're getting there little buddy!


Here comes Natalie.  Pizza and French Fries!  They're not just for lunch!


After lunch, it was back the mountain for a couple more runs before the kids finished up ski school.  Here is a great view of Garmisch-Partenkirschen.


Just two rugged, young men skiing in the Alps.


After ski school, I went down to the practice area, and Natalie, Grant, and I spent almost two more hours skiing.  Above, you can see Natalie demonstrating her skills as both a television host and skier!


Three snow monsters on the slopes of Germany!


Uh oh!  Look at that sad face. What happened here?  We are not sure!  :(

Upon removing her ski boot at the end of the day, Natalie complained that her foot hurt so badly that she could not even stand on it.  Unfortunately, that meant no skiing the following day.  And, just to be safe we took a trip to the emergency room to get an x-ray.  Nothing was broken, but Natalie's foot hurt quite a bit and she was on crutches for several weeks.

But even with a sad ending, we all agreed it was a great day of skiing!  Until next time Garmisch-Classic ski resort!

Hiking Lake Eibsee, Germany

Todd and the kids went skiing on our first day down in Garmisch.  I'm a native Floridian and to be honest, I just don't like to ski!  I'm not good at it, and no matter how many times I try it, I just can't seem to get into it.  So while they went skiing (and they all love to ski!), I got to go on a hike BY MYSELF around Lake Eibsee!


Lake Eibsee is at the base of the Zugspitze, which is the tallest mountain in Germany.  It's located literally feet away from the Austrian border.  The lake itself is at 3,281 feet above sea level!


In the summer, the water is emerald green in some places.  During the warm months, you can rent boats and swim and fish for carp, bass, pike and other fresh water fish.  But it's equally as beautiful in the winter!  It's a little more than 1.5 miles long, about 2/3 of a mile wide and 107 feet deep at it's deepest point.


The hike itself isn't a difficult one, but it is very long.  The entire route is about 7 kilometers, so plan on several hours here.  It's not a bad idea to have a walking stick or two, also - especially during the winter.  The pathway is compacted down for the most part, but it does get a bit steep as you reach the western part of the lake.  I hit a few slick spots here and there, but nothing too bad.  (Until you get into the sun.... more on that in a minute).  


I relied on a great website called OutdoorActive.com for my hike around Eibsee.  They suggested going counter clockwise around the Lake starting from the Eibsee Hotel parking lot, but I chose to go the other direction.  I'm glad I did because I got to enjoy the beautiful, surprisingly warm afternoon sunshine on the north side.


There are plenty of small lakes that are hydraulically connected to Eibsee.  Eibsee was formed from a massive rock slide approximately 3700 years ago.  The lake is still glacially fed, which is why the colors are so vibrant in the summertime.


Many tall pines grow on steep slopes around Eibsee.


Contrails criss-crossed the incredibly blue sky.


I only took this picture for my kids!  Someone had fun at Eibsee!  (Not me... I didn't have the proper gloves to make this!)


My new snowman friend in the shadows of the Zugspitze.


The Zugspitze makes long shadows this time of year. 


There's plenty of places around the Lake Eibsee trail to stop and take pictures, or even enjoy a few quiet minutes on a bench (bring some snacks and have a little picnic!)  Here I am coming around the west side of the lake, with the northern-facing mountains coming into view.


There's several small trickling streams that form slight waterfalls along the path.  I'm sure these are really nice in the summer.  I really liked turning off the music on my phone for a few minutes and enjoy the quiet.  I've got two kids. I don't get a lot of quiet!


As you come around the north side of Lake Eibsee, you emerge out of the shadow of the Zugspitze.  This means SUN!!!!!


Sun, trees and shadows on the north side of Eibsee.  I'm well over halfway done with my hike at this point.


There's one little spot in particular that provides the most spectacular views of Zugspitze and friends. On this particular day, I was able to grab a seat in the little covered bench and enjoy the amazingly warm sun on my face!  It was so warm, I had to take off my coat!  Of course, the hike itself warmed me up - so my recommendation as always is... layers!


While I was there, a nice lady from Frankfurt sporting a fur coat (!!) sat down next to me and we had a little discussion about the current state of affairs in the world.  We talked Brexit (she wasn't a fan) and Trump (DEFINITELY not a fan) and skiing (she used to ski more often before her career took off) and Italy (it's her favorite) and France (she speaks fluent French and English!) and how she was 70 years old (I would have said she was in her 50s!).  I love meeting people like her in my travels! 


Alas, I couldn't sit and chat with her for very long, since I had to finish my hike and go pick up the family from the slopes.  Here's some more snowman action on the trail!


The lake was frozen, and many people were walking across it or pulling sleds.  My new friend and I agreed - NO THANK YOU. 


I began my hike at the Eibsee Hotel, so you can see here I'm coming around the lake and I'm almost to the finish line!


One last look at the Zugspitze from the bridge between Eibsee and the Untersee.


The Untersee, facing north.


I probably could have stayed a bit longer at Eibsee since the kids wanted to keep skiing after their lessons were over, but I was starving so I went back to the hotel.  Mmmm, hummus and a Warsteiner are a nice post-hike treat! 

Until next time, Eibsee! 

The Bailey Planet

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