Hohenzollern Castle, Germany

We took a quick trip west to see some castles for the long Veteran's Day weekend!  I love castles, particularly shiny things that are housed in castles, even if no one else in my family loves them as much as I do!  Todd is the exception as he likes castles... but the kids are always whining when we go!

Hohenzollern is particularly special though!  It was built on top of Mount Hohenzollern and you can see it for miles away.  It's about an hour south of Stuttgart in the Swabian Alps, sitting approximately 2,805 feet above sea level, or if you're standing on the ground like I was, 768 feet above the town. You can choose to walk up to the top, park halfway and walk the rest of the way, or park in the parking lot and take the bus (for 3.30 Euro round trip) to the top.  My money was (literally) on the bus.

We caught the last of the fall foliage and even got some blue skies.  It wasn't even cold enough to need a coat, although I brought mine, never took it out of the car and somehow managed to LOSE my favorite coat that I have had since 2003. Ugh.

Hohenzollern was first mentioned in the early 11th century, although no one really knows anything about it with regard to shape and size.  It was destroyed in 1423 and rebuilt in 1454, bigger and better than ever.  During the Thirty Years War, it was captured by the Wurttembergs in 1634 and the Counts of Zollern gave up the castle to the Hapsburgs.  This started a long succession of (non Hohenzollern) owners until the Austrians left in the late 1700s.  After this, it fell into disrepair. 

It's kind of a swirly maze in the zwinger to get to the actual castle courtyard, which helps to deter enemies from invading. Of course, the prime location on top of the steep mountain also helps!

And when I say steep, I mean STEEP!

There's a couple of drawbridges along the way, and a couple of crazies posing on one of them.  Drawbridges just make this castle feel like a fortress!

In the beginning of the 1800s, the castle was in ruins, so the then-Crown Prince Frederick William IV of Prussia decided to build a new, third castle.  This one was constructed on the same footprint as the second castle.

The Hohenzollern family (dynasty?) is actually made up of two branches - the Brandenburg-Prussian (Protestant) Branch and the Swabian (Catholic) Branch.  The former owns 2/3 of the castle; the latter owns 1/3 of the castle.

Statues on lookout, scanning the valley for the enemy.

It's fall, so there weren't a ton of people there, which I really like.  We were able to walk right up, get in line and wait only about 15 minutes for the next tour, which happened to be in English (make sure you check the website for what time the English tours are!)

My Emperor and little Duke and Duchess waiting in line at Hohenzollern Castle.

Sometimes I can't tell the story better than the official website, so here is the history behind the split of the family (it's not a bad story and the families still get along to this day.) "At the end of the 12th century Count Frederick III of Zollern got married and attained the rank Burggrave of Nuremberg. Due to the geographical distance of the ancestral seats, his two sons divided the inheritance at the beginning of the 13th century. The family split into two still existing main lines of the Hohenzollern dynasty: the Swabian line and Franconian line, later Brandenburg-Prussian line which was given the rights of election of the Mark Brandenburg in 1411/15. This line created Prussian Kings in 1701, followed by the German Emperors in 1871."

I feel like everywhere I've ever lived has skipped over fall entirely.  Whether it was Florida which didn't achieve fall status until December, or Boston where fall lasts for about 1-2 weeks, I like having at least a handful of weekends that truly feel like autumn.

There are two churches on the grounds of Hohenzollern - one is Protestant (for the Prussian line) and one is Catholic (for the Swabian line.)  The Catholic St. Michael's church is the only building surviving from the second castle (although it was renovated in 1853 with the construction of the third castle.)  I think it's really cool that the two families seem to get along and there's a nod to both sides in many parts of this castle.

The history of the Swabian line after the split goes like this: "In 1534 the South German line was divided into Hohenzollern-Haigerloch-, Hechingen- and Sigmaringen lines. Since 1869 the Sigmaringen line still exists today. In 1623 the Swabian Hohenzollern dynasty was elevated to the rank of Princes. As a result of the 1848 revolution, they abdicated in favor of their powerful kinship in Berlin and from then on the ancestral seats appertained to Prussia. The following reconstruction of the ancestral Castle ruin was however carried out jointly and until today the Hohenzollern Castle is property of both family lines."

Obviously, like many castles in Europe, you can't take pictures in the castle. But you can steal them from the internet!  You start the tour in the Ancestral Hall (not shown above) where the elaborately painted family tree covers the walls.  The family tree of the post-split Prussian line is the only line included in here.  After the current heir on the Prussian line has a child, there is no longer room for any more descendants on the walls because it's completely full!  In this room, you have to put on little slippers over your shoes so as not to mess up the floors.  You then walk into the impressive Counts Hall, which is where they still hold dinners and functions today.  The chandeliers you see here are CRAZY cool.  They light the room with real candles, and require two incredibly strong men to go into the attic to lower and raise them.  They insert candles based on how long they expect a dinner party to last.  If the candles are expected to burn out during the party, then sorry folks. Everyone has to go.

The Blue Salon was one of my favorites (mostly since blue is one of my two favorite colors.)  This was the room that the women retreated to when the men had meetings and did activities without them.  The wallpaper in here is painted in real gold!  (Picture: ©DZT/Generalverwaltung des vormals Preussischen Königshauses (Ernst Wrba)

The highlight of the tour is the crown of Emperor Wilhelm II.  This is also known as the Hohenzollern crown, and was made in 1888.  What you see here are 142 rose cut diamonds, 18 larger round diamonds, 8 teardrop pearls and a big old sapphire.  Interestingly, Kaiser Wilhelm II never wore this crown (not officially, anyway.) 

After the tour concluded, we went down into the casemates (which I literally can't find any pictures from... how does one forget to take pictures!?)  The low ceiling, bomb proof casemates have been there since the time of the second castle, and you can read the story of the Ghost of the White Lady.  Legend has it that the count Albrecht von Hohenzollern had asked a younger widow to marry him, but knowing his parents were against the marriage, he told her they would marry "if it were not for four eyes between us."  She had taken this to mean that her two children from her previous marriage were opposed to this marriage, so she killed her own children.  The count was obviously like, "That's psycho.  Engagement over."  She moved to Rome searching for forgiveness, going crazy over her actions.  Her ghost now apparently haunts the castle!

If you're lucky enough to visit the castle on a beautiful day, you can see for miles from the mountain.

The town of Hechingen sits right below Hohenzollern Castle, split by Route 27.

Only three Kaisers served as Emperors of Prussia:  Wilhelm I (1861-1888), his son Frederick III (who, much like Prince Charles had a parent who lived into their 90s and refused to abdicate.  Frederick had cancer and only reigned for 99 days in 1888); and Wilhelm II (1888 until his forced abdication on November 9, 1918, which marked the end of the Empire and the beginning of the German Republic.)

The last (and really only) person to actually consider the castle home was the Crown Prince Wilhelm, the son of Kaiser Wilhelm II.  And he only lived there because he was on lock down at the end of the war!

An earthquake (yes, an earthquake!) registering 5.7 on the Richter scale damaged the castle in 1978 and it was under repair until the 1990s!

The views are beautiful.  If it was another week or two earlier, the leaves would have been at peak.

The sun is lower on the horizon already.  But isn't it beautiful?

Germany is still so green, even when the leaves are all changing.  It kind of reminds me of Ireland.

The current Prince of Prussia is Prince George, and when he and Princess Sophie (and their four children) are in town, they do stay here.  With views like this, you can't blame them!

One more stunning view.  Absolutely gorgeous!

After the tour, we walked around the grounds, and then we stopped at the Biergarten for some ice cream and ... beer!

You were waiting for it.  Admit it.  You were.

He's cute. I think I'll keep him.

Todd always takes a nice panorama of the places we visit!  We snapped one more before heading down to the bus.

The tunnel on the way out was quiet and creepy.

Bis Später, Burg Hohenzollern!

Sorry I've been gone....

In 2011, my AMAZING Dad was diagnosed with prostate cancer.  Despite his best efforts of always being on top of things and despite knowing his own father battled prostate cancer for years - going to the doctor and religiously having his PSA tested proved to be futile.  His awful doctor, Dr. LaRosa refused to diagnose him years ago.  His PSA was rising and my Dad was vigilant in asking, "What is going on?  Why is this rising?"  (He admitted in his last days that he should have gotten a second opinion - let this be a lesson to you or someone you love!)  The doctor finally conceded and he had several biopsies.  It turns out, there are four quadrants to the prostate and the doctor repeatedly biopsied three out of four of the quadrants.  You can probably guess where his cancer was.

Me and my Dad, fishing on the dock.  He was awful brave to let me control that fishing pole.

In early August, my Dad was told that he would be stopping all of his treatment.  After several years of various treatments, starting with hormone therapy, followed by a chemo pill, followed by actual chemotherapy (twice), his body had just given out.  He was exhausted.  

Here we are at Yankee Stadium in 2008.  My Dad and I shared a great love (and sometimes, hate) of baseball. (Side note:  I wish I still had those earrings that Todd bought me!!!  But I lost one!)

They told him that he would have 4-9 months left to live.  They told him that he would feel lousy for a little while, begin to feel better, and then go downhill again.  They told him that he would even be able to take a cruise, if he felt up to it.  So we tried to time our last visit with the peak of the mountain of time he had left with us.  We booked tickets to see him in late September.  I had visions that he would swim with us, but then would be very tired and would have to take naps.  I dreamt he could go to Frenchy's one last time with us.  I dreamt he would look like my dad.

Ten weeks later, he was gone.

And I didn't get any of those things.  When we arrived on Friday the 21st of September, my Dad was sitting in his chair, as he always was when we arrived.  He looked awful. I would never have told him that, but his skin was gray.  He hardly looked like the tanned man I knew for 42 years. 

The next 48 hours were hard.  He went from "able to get out of his bed with some help" to "paralyzed" by Monday.  It happend that fast.  I was woefully unprepared. He told me when I was home that his end was near.  I know... you're reading this thinking, "God, this is so dark!"  But this is what happened, and this is my outlet to document it.  

"Get me my hat.  I don't want anyone seeing me without hair."  

There's really nothing he loved in this world more than these four.

I was trying to think of how old this photo was. I remember the bench, and how we didn't have davits for a while.  And the sign out in the Intracoastal.... what year was this?  I think it was around 2000. He was so happy. I imagine this is how he is in heaven.

Or maybe he's just in heaven with his babies and a sheepshead fish.

It's still one of my favorite pictures.  Look at those happy faces.  Me and my Dad.

Here we are older, and at the Grand Canyon.  This trip was a whirlwind of emotion for me.  He knows about it. 

Weren't we cute?  I think I was 7 here.  My Dad had taken us (solo) to the Shriner's Easter Egg hunt.  My Mom worked a lot of nights and weekends, and I was one of those kids who had an actual relationship with my Dad because I didn't have a choice.  My Mom had to work (and at the time, she made more money than he did) so my Dad took us to Easter Egg hunts and made us dinner every night out of the Fry Daddy.  He was such a hands on dad.  I'm sure he was super self conscious (I can hear him now saying, "I didn't know what the hell I was doing!") but he really did such a good job.

This was Christmas of 1988.  We had just bought this Nissan Maxima (which later I would wind up hating when I was learning to drive!)

This is my Dad with his parents, at their 50th wedding anniversary.  I still don't know who he looks like. But I think it's funny that he's taller than his Dad.  My grandparents were married for 61 years and my parents made it to 50 years this past June.

He said he didn't remember this, but I'm pretty sure I asked him to grow a beard, and he did!  And he took us to Disney World every year, usually in February.

Even when I made mistakes in life, my Dad always supported me.  This was right after my divorce, when I had to sell my home and move into an apartment.  We apparently liked to wear matching orange sweaters... mine for Auburn, his for the Gators.

I was fortunate enough to find the love of my life in Todd, and I know how extremely lucky I was to have my Dad there to walk me down the aisle.  So many people don't get that opportunity.  

I know, I know... it's kind of inappropriate!  But SO funny, with his Styrofoam koozie.  I wish I knew the story of this one.  (Side note:  I loved that couch!)

Even though my Dad isn't with us anymore, at least I have his little mini me - Grant!  I still can't believe how much those two look alike!

He loved to fish.  And he was really good at it!

I remember he had this huge video camera back in the early to mid 80s.  I didn't know anyone else who actually had one like this. This was at my grandmother's house (my Mom's Mom) in Rushville, Indiana.  He was always one for documenting memories so no one ever forgot them.  He took pictures, video and told SO many stories.

In 2001, I came home for Thanksgiving - one of those rare times I got a holiday off at The Weather Channel.  We took this family pic on the dock.  I met Todd about 6 months later and the photo on the dock was never again just the four of us.

I'd be doing you all a great disservice if I didn't show this photo of us back when I had a perm.  I think this was Christmas of 1985.

This picture is cute - and to me, really funny.  It was Easter 1978 and my Mom had just found out that she was pregnant with my brother.  She's so happy and glowing. My Dad is giving side eye like, "What?  You mean we're gonna have another one of those???"  I kid of course... his kids were everything to him.

He was quite proud of this one - he and my brother had gone out to Colorado and went to the Coors factory.

My Mom said she didn't like this picture but I guess aside from my dad squinting in the sun, I always thought it was really cute.  I remember how excited I was that they came up for the Diamond Dolls Parents' Day.  I learned all of my baseball knowledge from my Dad!  (I also thought my Mom looked really pretty here!)

We were kind of cute, weren't we? (Sorry the photo is kind of beat up.)  I think my brother and I were one and three here.  Who doesn't have a bunch of these Olan Mills family photos!?!

One of my favorite things about my Dad, that I *think* I got from him (and my Mom!) was his sense of adventure and humor.  When I was 16 years old, he asked me what I wanted for my birthday and I said, "I want to go to Candlestick Park and see the Giants play."  My Mom worked for Delta Air Lines so that wasn't a problem... we left on the Saturday morning 6 am flight with a brief stop in Dallas and were in San Francisco well before lunchtime.  We changed clothes in the airport, rented a car and went to the 'Stick.  Back then, Tampa Bay didn't have a baseball team and there were rumors swirling that the San Francisco Giants were going to be sold to Tampa Bay and that this game would be their (second to) last game at Candlestick.  All of the Tampa Bay news outlets were there, and Dad happened to notice one of the WFLA Channel 8 reporters Rod Challenger.  As he told the story, he walked right up to Rod and introduced himself:  "Bill Swales, Indian Rocks Beach, Florida."  Well, Rod immediately sensed a story!  So did the St. Petersburg Times, who gave a half page write up about us.  (Slow news day, perhaps?)  Right before I moved to Germany, I flew down to Tampa for my nephew's baptism, so we decided to recreate this epic photo at the Trop.  We all got the BIGGEST kick out of this!  How lucky are we?  My Dad absolutely loved this.  Two great memories.

I'm *kind of* glad this day happened.  He certainly loved my mother.

Yep.  One more of those funny Olan Mills photos!

Wait, wait... let's get ONE more Olan Mills photo.  This was the only time we ever did this after I was about 4 years old.  I don't know what possessed us to do this, but I still vividly remember it.  It was the fall of 1991.

My Dad had one sister, Martha who passed away in 2002 of ALS.  I like to think that they're riding bikes together in heaven.

My parents loved to travel and visited 76 countries and all 50 states.  Wherever he went, he liked to have a "couple of frosties" and often stole these beer glasses!  I've got to give credit to my Mom... who often snuck them out in her purse.  In their later years, they were more honest and just bought them!  Here he was in Iceland, having a Viking frosty.

I think of the song, "Leader of the Band" by one of my favorite singers, Dan Fogelberg.  

"I thank you for the music and your stories of the road

I thank you for the freedom when it came my time to go
I thank you for the kindness and the times when you got tough
And, Papa, I don't think I said "I love you" near enough.

The leader of the band is tired and his eyes are growing old
But his blood runs through my instrument and his song is in my soul.
My life has been a poor attempt to imitate the man.
I'm just a living legacy to the leader of the band.
I am the living legacy to the leader of the band." 

My Dad also loved the Wild Turkey.  We both loved our bourbon!  Anytime a hurricane approached and they had to evacuate, he would take this picture.  My Dad was very good at putting people at ease when things were very stressful.  He really did have a great sense of humor!

Believe it or not, this was the very day of the Boston Marathon bombing.  We had been out on 135 in Natick watching the marathon at a friends house, and came home around lunchtime because the kids needed to eat and take naps.  Pop Pop got out a book and read it to Grant.  Pop Pop and his little mini me.  A few hours later, as we were all napping (except for Todd), we learned about the bombings.

He loved his family and loved to take us all out to dinner (and pay for it!) like this time in 2017 we went to the Salt Rock Café.

Every Christmas Eve, we used to go down to the Valdez house in St. Petersburg (my godfather's parents house) and have a pig roast. There was (is!) always quite a spread - with the whole pig, yucca, Greek salad, black beans and rice... you never leave hungry.  My Dad never went anywhere without his signature Polo shirts on (or a t-shirt and a baseball hat!)

My Dad's best friend is my Godfather, Jose.  (See above!) He often stopped by to see my Dad so they could just chat.  They would just tell stories and it was so awesome.  I was so happy to tell stories with them. Jose hung out in my Dad's wheelchair and they told stories for forever. 

My Dad was also a VERY hard worker.  He never knew how to slow down.  He had three degrees from Ball State (2) and the University of South Florida, and eventually worked in the Administration building for Pinellas County schools.  Later, he was an assistant principal of a high school.  Not bad for a kid from a VERY poor family in southern Indiana.

My dad passed away on October 12, 2018 at the age of 76.  His mother lived to be 100 and some change. His father was 84.  I don't know how he could have been taken so early from us.  Especially when he was so vigilant when it came to his health.

This smile and his laughter is what I will miss the most.  As I finished writing this blog, the song "Ships of Heaven" by Blackhawk randomly popped up on my phone. 

"Don't cry for me when I'm gone
Keep the faith and be strong
Cause through it all I've been blessed
I've faced my fears and passed the test
When you look up in the sky on a sunny day
Imagine me driftin' away

I'll be sailing on the ships of heaven
When the tide rolls out for the last time
You'll find me sailing on the ships of heaven

Waiting for the day I come sailing back to you.

Remember all,the times we had
Some were great some were sad
But ya know that in the end
Our love was stronger when we began
No unforgiven sins and no regrets
Just the times of our lifes we will never forget
I'll be sailing on the ships of heaven
When the tide rolls out,for the last time
You'll find me sailing on the ships of heaven
Waiting for the day I come sailing back to you."

I can't wait for you to come sailing back to me, Daddy.